07/23 to 07/27 2025 Trip to Canada - Part Four

2025 Trip to Canada Part Four

July 23 to July 27  

It happens every time. There's something quietly spiritual about driving along a highway that curves like a river through all the landscapes Nature has to offer. Seems that Nature is both my companion and my guide revealing a fresh breath of wonder with each hill I crest and presents a view of the next horizon different than the one before.  In Canada, there's a rhythm of ascent and awe.  Hills and valleys are not obstacles, rather invitations to proceed and continue to be awed. It just doesn't get tiring. There's beauty not in the destination but a constant unfolding of wonder as you drive. I think more folks should look into this type of experience.

 D. King Neptune Campground 5 Nights

Indian Harbour, Nova Scotia

After my 4 hour, 394 mile trip to King Neptune Campground, one by one, my fellow Hudson Islanders arrived, set up and prepared for the 5-night stay. The weather was terrific. No rain and therefore, no campfires...again; but the wind escorted "feel like" temps that dipped and required jackets as well as heat at night. But how fresh and clean were those breezes! There was so much to experience, I've broken this post down to cover four areas. The Campground, Peggy's Cove, Halifax, Lunenburg and our Dining Experiences.

The Campground:

Family run for sixty years, this small, tightly packed campground on the shores of Yankee Cove has 65 sites, 45 of which are serviced (water and 30 amp) sites. Tent sites are popular along the perimeter and shoreline.

My site 43 was nice but power was intermittent and during my 5-night stay I couldn't run the AC which, fortunately, wasn't needed. Heat at night, was touch and go. Jack to my left and Gene/Susan to my right kept our group of 8 close together.

Most days, the strong on-shore wind kept temps in the high 50's and many morning coffee get-together needed layers of outerwear.

My view, however, was exceptional. Not right on the water but close enough to enjoy. It wasn't long before tenters soon occupied the area...no water, no electricity. We watched so many come and go; what they had to pack, how they spent the very chilly nights; how they had to come to the community water spigot and sink to wash dishes was enough to be thankful for an RV no matter the size.

Ray/Sue's area across from me before Jim/Pat and Tom/Vicky arrived was spacious. All three formed a cozy U-shaped enclave. Roberta was nearby up on high ground. 

Here's a 360º view:

Yup, hubby, wife, BIG dog, small child all enjoying the tenting life.

This fella walked its owner each day and, true to cat's demeanor, had no qualms about keeping its owner in the dark as to what it was going to do next.

Jack got the story from this visitor from Germany. Seems the owner had the vehicle shipped to Argentina from Germany. He then flew down and picked it up and drove north into and through the United States. Now in Canada, he was going to drive it to Halifax and have it shipped back home. I loved his stickers of countries where mine, alas, are only of states. 

Our location on the water gave us a couple of nights of terrific sunsets...

...looking west over St. Margaret's Bay

Another sunset attracted a crowd at the water's edge. No clouds...

...but "there’s a kind of quiet magic in a red setting sun—like the sky is whispering its last secret before nightfall.”

Happy hour had a slight change in flavor. This winner was blended with Oriental botanicals combined with local Irish ones: Juniper berries, Angelica root, Orris root, Caraway seed, Coriander seed, Meadow-sweet, Cardamom, and Star Anis are slow-distilled by hand and vapor infused with fresh lemon, grapefruit, lime and Gunpowder Tea. Sláinte mhaith. Go n-éirí an t-ádh leat. (Cheers. To your good health)

And before visitors occupied the waterfront tent sites, Tom decided to amp it up with his sound system and jam or serenade St. Margaret's Bay.

Peggy's Cove

A mere 2+ mile drive brought us to Peggy's Cove, site of Peggy Point or Peggy's Cove Lighthouse and the Sou' Wester Restaurant where we twice dined. Even with a year round population of thirty, this small fishing village teems with tens of thousands of tourists each year who come to  view the lighthouse making it widely considered the most photographed lighthouse in the world. 

As for the many legends or theories of the origin of "Peggy's Cove", one romantic legend says it was named after a young shipwrecked survivor named Peggy, rescued by a local fisherman. They fell in love and settled there.

Surrounded by smooth slippery rocks, the locals refer to the black rocks as "death rocks."

The lighthouse occupies the East side of the entrance to St. Margaret's Bay and stands 67 feet above the water.

The lighthouse is a white octagonal concrete tower, 50 feet high originally built in 1868. Previous structure destroyed by hurricane Edna in 1954. Its light can be seen about 10 nautical miles.

Beautiful examples of glacially-scarred polished granite outcrops, formed during the last Ice Age, roughly 10,000 to 20,000 years ago.

Imagine how slippery the wet, blacks rocks are. Hence the warning plaque: "Warning: Injury and death have rewarded careless sightseers here. The ocean and rocks are treacherous. Savour the sea from a distance."

View a scenic 3-minute drone presentation of the lighthouse and its surrounding area HERE.

Halifax

Another day trip was to Halifax. A little more than the five minute trek to Peggy's Cove; this was a 50 minute, 30 mile journey. Once arrived and parking found, I w-a-l-k-e-d the Boardwalk from Pier 21 to our meeting place, The Cable Wharf for lunch, about a mile or a twenty minute walk for most but for me it was one step short of leaving the planet. 

The periodic placement of these helpful signs showed your location. They were a dismal reminder of the trek ahead of me. The word, "Forever," took on a new meaning for me.

Nay, nay, but onward I went along a beautiful and scenic, well maintained boardwalk with plenty of Adirondack chairs and benches...thank goodness.

Entertainment along the way:

This three‑masted schooner is the Tall Ship Silva. Built in Sweden in 1939 and operated as a historic tourism vessel, the Halifax's signature ship, Silva, offers scenic harbor cruises and sunset sails off the Halifax waterfront.

This 150' yacht, owned by mining industry businessman, Michael O'Keeffe, is valued between $14-$20 million and has a beach club with swim platform and storage for toys, a gym/fitness center, helicopter landing pad with refueling capability, jacuzzi on sun deck and a guest elevator connecting all decks; formal dining for 10 amidships and accommodates up to 15 guests in seven staterooms with 11 crew members. Yearly operating expense between $1-2 million.

Finally, my destination: The Cable Wharf Restaurant. It is located at the rear and at the end of the pier right on the water. I'm cheating by placing this lunch here instead of including it with our Dining Experiences below.

Looking back into the main dining area.

Our server, Andrew, serving others. Our table was at the back and to the left.

Nova Scotia Lobster Roll:  Celery, Mayo, Green Onion, Garlic Potato Bun, Crispy Fries 

Lunenburg

Next, a visit to Lunenburg, an hour's drive in the opposite direction from Halifax. Here, the racing schooner Bluenose II was docked and available for visiting and tours. For boating enthusiasts, the link provided should give you ample background information.

Built in 1963, rebuilt in 2012, this Ambassador ship of Nova Scotia measures 161 feet with its foremast measuring 118 feet, its mainmast, 125 feet.

It has a complement of 18 crewmembers and has logged a speed of  16 knots under sail.

They offer anyone the opportunity to be a "Deckhand For a Day" where you can join the crew of Bluenose II for a full day of sailing! Scrub the decks, help set and strike the sails, take the helm, and have lunch with the crew.

Here, Tony prepares to board ship.

It has twin diesel engines and can cruise at 8 knots.

They say the origin of the namesake "Bluenose" depends on who you ask. Four theories are presented HERE, each as plausible as the next.

Pat and Jim take the helm

Doreen, Tony and Roberta

A look back at the village shops and places to stay.

As I made my way back along the Boardwalk toward the restaurant to meet others for lunch, I was captivated by the talent and unique sound performed by this one-man street musician. Give a listen. 

Ahh, the restaurant...a nice segue into the last part of this post. The dining pleasures enjoyed.

Dining

 

For each of our travels from our base camp, King Neptune Campground, the timing was such that a lunch or dinner fit perfectly into our schedule. So, for you calorie-counters get out your calculators and have a ball. 

At Peggy's Cove, The Sou' Wester.

During our 5-day stay, we dined twice at the popular and busy restaurant.

A plentiful supply of lobsters served at market price.

My first meal was the Lobster Mac & Cheese: Creamy homemade lobster cheese sauce and local lobster meat; served with garlic toast.

Lobster chunks were at a minimum; I found a couple, Doreen didn't hit paydirt. 

On our second visit, my meal was the Nova Scotia Haddock Dinner: Fresh filet of local haddock, lightly flour dusted and grilled, served with fries, vegetables and coleslaw...and

...accompanied by a flight of four 5-ounce servings of local IPA's

Down the road apiece from the campground was the Rhubarb Restaurant. Check out their VIDEO HERE. You'll want to go.

I enjoyed their delicious Coconut Risotto Cake: Thai red curry sauce and mango cilantro salsa.

Accompanied by an Australian Chardonnay

In Lunenberg, after viewing the Bluenose II, we lunched at the Ol' Fish Factory. 

L. to R. Roberta, Pat, Susan, Gene, Jack, Doreen, Tony, Jim

Fish & Chips: Beer battered and deep-fried haddock, French fries, ketchup, house tartar and coleslaw.

And so, our five day stay came to an end but with continued thanks to Roberta for mapping out and securing the reservations, dates and directions, the journey continues. This concludes my fourth entry of this incredible journey with one more stop. My fifth and final blog for this Canadian Adventure will showcase Marco Polo Land, the sights and dining experiences will continue. See you there.

For me, the toast: To friends who make us laugh, food that makes us forget our diets and scales we plan to avoid until further notice. Life’s too short to count calories—and too long to eat salad every night. Cheers!